Cary Arms and Spa, Torquay: hotel review
Nestled on the side of a dizzyingly steep hill, moments away from the sea and just a 10-minute drive from central Torquay, is the Cary Arms & Spa hotel. For two tranquil nights, my partner and I soaked up the five-star boutique’s fabulous coastal views and sampled some delicious food, our visit happily coinciding with England’s Seafood Feast - a two-week celebration of local seafood in Brixham, Paignton and Torquay.
Although London to Torquay feels like a great distance, it took us less than four hours to get from Paddington Station to the hotel. We travelled via Great Western Railway, which runs direct trains to Torquay, as well as more regular journeys via Newton Abbot.
Rooms that are a stone’s throw from the sea
The Cary Arms & Spa offers eight rooms located in the main inn, two beach suites within tantalising reach of the sea, six beach huts and seven self-catered cottages.
We were treated to the delights of Beach Hut 2 - a maisonette towards the top of the property - conveniently positioned just a Babbacombe beach pebble’s throw from the spa. A bottle of sloe gin which greeted us upon arrival got the ball rolling in exactly the kind of luxurious direction we’d hoped for.
After some suitable sloe gin slurping, we turned our attention to the front of the hut, which benefits from an expansive glass door and windows that offer an unobstructed view of the English Riviera below. In favourable weather, guests can make the most of a comfy terrace area just in front of the door, where you can zen out to the sounds of the sea.
Back inside the hut, which features a comfortable downstairs living room area with some interior design nods to the seaside (think: local Devon posters and pictures) and a massive L-shaped sofa that’s more than suitable for some hardcore lounging. The living room leads to a large bathroom with a walk-in shower which is perfect for warming back up after a dip into the sea (more on this later). The upstairs bedroom area is a particularly cosy spot and we loved being lulled to sleep by the pitter-patter of October rain on the skylight.
From sloe gin and skylights… to the spa
The adjacent spa is the ultimate spot for some indulgent chilling out. Offering the same kind of panoramic views as the rest of the property, it also boasts all the self-care accoutrements you might dream of for your steaming, swimming and sweating needs.
Permit me to offer an exhaustive list of the pampering possibilities: a hydrotherapy pool, a steam room, a sauna, a gym, and even a shower with exotic settings like “jungle” and “arctic cold”. Guests can enjoy full use of the spa facilities for £10, although this access is included if you book one of the treatments on offer, from massages and facials to full-body exfoliations.
For the more adventurous types, nature’s very own spa area is just 30 metres or so from the doorstep of the Cary Arms (that’s my poncy way of referring to the sea). There’s a direct access point from the hotel to the beach where I made a point of heading each morning of our stay. The brilliantly clear, beautifully calm and Britishly chilly(!) waters were an absolute salve to my soul.
Time for some seafood
The serious business of food is one of the main draws to this bit of coast. Dinner at the cosy Cary Arms restaurant was our first treat and we made sure to sample their seafood fare - though the menu offers a range of goodies, from fancy burgers and steaks to a moreish-looking mushroom and spinach risotto.
Starters of pan-seared scallops with pancetta crisps and hazelnut butter, and succulent squid with lashings of aioli certainly whet our appetites. We kept the marine genre going for our mains, with breaded scampi and a particularly sumptuous catch of the day dish: brill with roasted new potatoes, seasonal veg and basil pesto. All things considered, it was a sumptuous seafood supper.
We ventured further afield for dinner the next night, heading to Pier Point restaurant in Torquay, once again with an outstanding view of the water. We went for an uncomplicated order of a battered cod and chips each. The pressure is seriously on when you can literally see the sea - and this fish and chips did not disappoint. Homemade mushy peas, crunchy chips, aromatic curry sauce for dipping and a hearty portion of battered fish most certainly hit the proverbial spot.
We also loved that the restaurant offers diners the option to buy a portion of “invisible chips” for £2.50, 100% of which goes to Pier Point’s partner charity, Rowcroft Hospice, which provides care for local people with terminal illnesses.
A tonic for the soul
Before visiting the Cary Arms, I was feeling pretty stressed out. The sea air, coupled with some delicious seafood, a few luxurious hours whiled away in a spa and the opportunity to sit and read my book while overlooking some spectacular views, did wonders for me. The trip to Torquay was just the circuit breaker I needed - and I returned to London feeling rested, rejuvenated and ready to take on the world.
Kate was a guest of Cary Arms & Spa. She travelled to Torquay from London via Great Western Railway, where Advance Purchase singles start from just £36.