Hartwell House & Spa, Buckinghamshire: hotel review
Set in over 90 acres of beautiful grounds and owned by the National Trust, Hartwell House is a truly historic property offering luxurious accommodation, top-notch spa facilities and an unparalleled fine-dining experience.
And if this wasn’t enough of a draw, it’s also incredibly accessible. It’s under an hour from London via train - and, if the weather is nice and you fancy a stroll, you can even walk to the hotel from Aylesbury train station.
All this means that if you’re considering a weekend away, Hartwell House & Spa should be top of your list.
A warm welcome
My trip to Hartwell House coincided with a spell of winter sunshine, and as my boyfriend and I walked down the winding driveway, we felt as if we were leaving the stresses of January behind us.
This theme of relaxation continued throughout the trip, as the hotel proved to be the perfect place to unwind and rejuvenate.
Hartwell House is one of three properties making up the National Trust-owned Historic House Hotels group. The stately home’s rich heritage was evident in every room, and upon arrival we were given a tour of the property. Not only were all of the hotel’s staff incredibly friendly, they were also clued up on the history of the property - I can’t think of a better place to while away a weekend if you’re a history fan!
The room
Despite oozing history, Hartwell House never felt staid - and nowhere was this more evident than in the bedrooms. The classic decor blends seamlessly with modern amenities; think, historic portraits alongside fluffy towels, slippers and a very welcome Nespresso machine.
Our room featured a king-sized bed looking out onto the green grounds - apparently you can even see cattle grazing there in summer! - and window seats which provided the perfect spot for reading.
Afternoon tea
After settling into our room, we headed down to one of Hartwell’s impressive reception rooms - big windows on one side, a cozy fireplace on the other.
We then enjoyed an indulgent afternoon tea, featuring all the classics: smoked salmon sandwiches, scones, mini-quiches and much more besides.
The roast Oxfordshire beef, tomato and horseradish sandwich was probably my favourite savoury item, but the scones - homemade, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside - stole the show.
This was all washed down with a pot of smoky lapsang souchong, which came in unlimited supply.
The grounds and spa
It’s well worth spending time exploring Hartwell’s extensive gardens and parklands. We enjoyed an idyllic late afternoon stroll, soaking up the fading sunshine and marvelling at the snowdrops coming through.
We then headed to the pool and spa, which all overnight guests have access to. As with every other aspect of Hartwell, every luxury imaginable was provided. There were fluffy towels, dressing gowns and slippers - alongside a more practical machine in which to dry your costume.
We enjoyed a few very slow laps in the art deco-inspired pool (we were on holiday, after all!) and relaxed in the steam room, working up a real appetite for dinner.
It’s also worth noting that if you’re lucky enough to visit Hartwell during the summer months, there are outdoor tennis courts and sun loungers to enjoy, too.
The dinner
After a long shower, we headed down for a pre-dinner drink. The setting was spectacular: we were seated in the Great Hall, next to a roaring fire, while a live pianist (!) performed in the corner.
My boyfriend opted for a gin martini, while I went for a manhattan (and learned, on the expert advice of Hartwell’s friendly staff, that I should opt for it “perfect”).
As we sat by the fire and enjoyed possibly the best cocktails we have ever tried, the chef sent through an amuse-bouche which included crispy lamb on a bed of lime jelly.
It was then time for dinner and, as always, my boyfriend and I opted for different dishes so we could sample as much of the menu as possible.
For starters, we had ravioli of Cornish sole and lobster, as well as the roasted breast of wood pigeon. Both dishes were spectacular, but the ravioli - with its homemade dough and notes of fennel - stole the show.
For our main course, we went for the roasted sirloin of Oxfordshire beef and the roasted saddle of rabbit. Both dishes were exquisite, and it’s also worth pointing out here that Hartwell House caters not only for vegetarians, but for all manner of dietary requirements.
It was then time for dessert. My boyfriend opted for the valrhona chocolate fondant with a banana and oabika sorbet, while I enjoyed a Sable Breton (a kind of eggy shortbread) with poached Yorkshire rhubarb, which proved to be deliciously seasonal and fresh.
The next morning
Although it may surprise you to learn that we had any appetite left, the next morning - ever so slightly hungover from a delicious bottle of house red the night before - we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast at Hartwell.
We both opted for the full English (what else?!), but not before we made the most of the yoghurt, fresh fruit salad and pastries on offer.
The cooked breakfast was among the best I have eaten, featuring perfectly poached eggs that were testament to Hartwell’s exceptional attention to detail and quality of service.
A wonderful weekend
It was then (sadly!) time to check out, but not before we took a final stroll around the grounds. We ventured down to the river to look at the ducks, before heading up the hill to see the old church ruins.
We came away from our stay at Hartwell feeling utterly rested and ready to take on the month ahead. Whether you’re looking for a romantic weekend away, some quiet time to yourself or an immersion in English history, I can’t think of any better place than Hartwell House & Spa. I for one hope to be back very soon.
Esther was a guest of Hartwell House & Spa. She travelled to Aylesbury from London via Chiltern Railways, where Advance Purchase singles start from just £19.