When it comes to skincare, there are a *lot* of different products out there - and even more information about what they each do. Retinol, collagen and hyaluronic acid have all become household names in recent years, featuring in products on bathroom shelves up and down the country.

But there’s a new kid on the block: EGF, or epidermal growth factor. It’s already gathered itself a devoted following of skincare fans, with #egf racking up over 21.4 million views on TikTok.

EGF is an ingredient that we’re all likely to be hearing a lot more about soon - which is why we’re here to stop you from going down the skincare research rabbit hole (we’ve all been there!) and provide you with the facts.

We’ve teamed up with BIOEFFECT - the Icelandic biotech skincare brand - to bring you this science-backed guide to EGF.

We spoke to Sigrún Dögg Guðjónsdóttir M.D., BIOEFFECT’S Chief of Research and Development, to find out why EGF works so well as a skincare ingredient - and why you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine very soon.

First things first: what is epidermal growth factor (EGF)?

There are many different kinds of growth factors found in the human body - and EGF is “one of the most important”, said Sigrún. It helps the skin’s healing process - for example, when we get cuts or grazes - and it also supports the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin’s deeper layers.

This means that EGF has a *big* role to play in keeping our skin looking smooth and plump - and explains why it’s such a hot ingredient in skincare right now (especially as our natural EGF levels decline from our early twenties).

Where does it come from?

We all naturally have EGF in our skin - but with regard to the EGF that’s found in skincare products? Well, that really depends on the brand.

Many products on the market use EGF that has been generated in yeast or bacteria, but this isn’t ideal. “A byproduct - endotoxin - is also produced in the process, and this can irritate the skin and inhibit its natural healing process,” said Sigrún.

Thankfully, there are other brands such as BIOEFFECT which use plant-based EGF in their products - which is a *much* better way to care for your skin (and the planet). Over a decade ago, BIOEFFECT scientists developed a method to produce EGF in barley plants - avoiding these harmful byproducts.

Yep, in addition to producing other tasty things (think: beer and bread), barley also makes the ideal vehicle for producing EGF, owing to its self-pollinating, high-yielding nature.

Our wonderful readers can take 20% off all BIOEFFECT products and enjoy a free gift with their purchase, using the code THEKNOW20 (the offer runs until 3 November and the gift will be included while supplies last).

How is EGF different from collagen?

Collagen, like EGF, is a protein. It’s found in the skin’s deeper layer and its role is structural, keeping the skin firm and giving it elasticity.

But unlike EGF - which is just found in our skin - collagen is found elsewhere in the human body too, like in our joints and hair. This means that when it comes to collagen-containing skincare products and supplements, their efficacy can really vary, as the effects can be less targeted.

But EGF encourages the production of collagen directly at skin level, creating a more targeted effect. (For any science fans reading this, EGF activates cells called fibroblasts in the skin’s deeper layer, the dermis.)

And what about EGF’s environmental impact?

When weighing up the environmental impact of your skincare purchases, opting for a plant-based EGF product is likely a better bet than collagen supplements. This is particularly true when it comes to collagen extracted from bovine (cattle), which has been linked to deforestation of the Brazilian Amazon.

BIOEFFECT’s EGF products are vegan-friendly, made with a low carbon footprint and make full use of Iceland’s incredible natural resources.

“We use the geothermal heat of a lava field to heat our greenhouse, and incorporate the naturally soft Icelandic water into products without needing to chemically purify it,” said Sigrún.

We also want to give a special shoutout to BIOEFFECT’s Volcanic Exfoliator, which uses locally-sourced volcanic pumice, as well as the hydrating OSA Water Mist, which uses a natural form of geothermal silica to help support the skin’s structural integrity. Pretty cool!

How is EGF different to retinol?

Retinol - another popular active ingredient in skincare - has a whole other mode of action. It works to rapidly increase cell turnover on the skin - and while this makes it a great treatment for acne and anti-ageing in some, in others, it can lead to considerable skin irritation.

A big difference between EGF and retinol, therefore, is that there is no need to build up tolerance when it comes to using EGF skincare. “You can begin using it twice a day, straight away,” said Sigrún.

So, for those with sensitive skin, plant-based EGF can make a pretty great skincare choice - especially if you opt for a brand like BIOEFFECT, which uses minimal ingredients and keeps things fragrance-free. This means you can use the same product on different areas of the body without worrying about sensitivity. Popping the nourishing EGF Hand Serum into your handbag and using it on your face when you travel/out and about? Revolutionary.

I’m sold! So how do I use EGF?

Whether it’s with collagen, retinol or EGF-containing products, it’s absolutely key to opt for quality, to minimise the risk of irritation and ensure the products work as well as they should. Once you’ve picked up your product(s) - use the code THEKNOW20 for 20% off (plus a free gift!) - apply them to clean skin, and wait around five minutes before following up with suncream, makeup or anything else you fancy that day!

And if, like us, you’re trying to be mindful about what you buy - both for the planet and your pocket - you can’t go wrong with BIOEFFECT’s EGF Serum. After all, who wants to clutter up the cabinets with a million different hand, body and face creams?! Minimalism is *definitely* the way to go.

Feeling inspired to incorporate EGF into your own skincare routine? Our wonderful readers can take 20% off all BIOEFFECT products and enjoy a free gift with their purchase, using the code THEKNOW20 (the offer runs until 3 November and the gift will be included while supplies last).

BIOEFFECT's sponsorship of The Know is keeping news that’s conscious of your mental health free and available to all.