Demystifying skincare: how to build a routine that works for you
Our friends at Renude are all about making skincare more accessible. In this guide, they lay out everything you need to know to create a routine that works for you.
With so many buzzwords and ingredients on offer, and a seemingly endless flow of new product launches, many of us are totally confused about which skincare products will work for us. In fact, 62% of the things we buy aren’t effective for our skin, and almost a third are thrown away before they’re used up. But where do you even start with figuring out the right formula?
This simple guide is here to help! We give you the tools you need to make informed skincare purchases, whether you’re reading this now, or in five years time.
First up though, here’s a little explanation on how to use this guide.
First, we offer you a quick guideline of ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ that give you our top tips.
Then we take a look at the common skincare ingredients that can help you achieve your goals, so you know what to purchase in all kinds of products.
Finally, we help you figure out what to look for in your building block products. Every skincare routine needs the same three things: a cleanser, a moisturiser, and a sunscreen. This is the foundation of your new regime.
But first, a PSA: all skin is good skin. Above all else, focus on your health and happiness - not the way your skin looks.
First up: the Do’s and Don'ts of Skincare
Do
Always wear broad-spectrum SPF during the day.
Phase ingredients in gradually. If you're new to active ingredients, keep everything simple and start at a lower concentration before building up.
Be patient. It takes our skin 4-6 weeks to generate, and 2-3 skin cycles to start seeing the full benefit of a new routine. We recommend using a new routine for 12 weeks before assessing its impact on the skin.
Don’t
Use three different serums at the same time - no matter what the salesperson recommends. Use one to target your key concern in the morning, and another in the evening.
Pick and mix. However tempting it is to swap in new active ingredients each time a product runs out, remember that our skin loves consistency, and that’s what will keep skin its best over time.
Ignore signs of skin barrier damage - it's more common than you think. If you’re starting to notice sudden changes in your skin (irritation, redness, sensitivity, and breakouts), the best approach is to go back to basics with a gentle cleanser/moisturiser/SPF until the symptoms subside.
The Go-To Guide to Ingredients
Know who your friends are
When making any decision about skincare, the first step is knowing the ingredients you need to target your specific skin goal. The following list is by no means exhaustive, but it’s a great place to start.
Goal: Reduce breakouts and congestion
Retinoids: These unclog pores by normalising the rate of cell turnover, as well as controlling sebum production. Start at a low concentration and build up.
Azelaic acid: An anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredient that can also fade post-acne marks.
Salicylic acid: An anti-inflammatory that dissolves oil within the pores to prevent blockages.
Niacinamide: It's anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating. Plus, it can fade post-acne marks.
Goal: Reduce lines and wrinkles
Retinoids: By regulating cell turnover and increasing the thickness of the epidermis, these add extra structure to reduce wrinkling.
Peptides: These stimulate the production of our skin’s proteins (ie. collagen & elastin), as this naturally slows with age.
Vitamin C: This antioxidant protects the skin from damage and gives great luminosity. It’s also involved in the collagen production process, so having an ample supply ensures that the process is working effectively.
Goal: Fade Hyperpigmentation
Alpha Arbutin: A derivative of hydroquinone (gold-standard prescription ingredient for fading hyperpigmentation), it blocks any excess production of skin pigment to fade dark spots.
Retinoids: These make our outer skin cells (where pigmentation is most prominent) shed faster, visibly fading hyperpigmentation marks.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is thought to work in the same way as Alpha Arbutin, reducing excess production of melanin.
Niacinamide: This ingredient interacts with a different part of the melanin production process, inhibiting the transfer of pigment to the skin cells.
Goal: Calm Redness
Azelaic acid: Anti-inflammatory properties make this a great option to reduce inflammation and associated redness in the skin. This ingredient is used in prescription topicals for rosacea at 15% concentration, due to its clinical effect.
Ceramides: A natural component of our skin barrier,ceramides can reinforce the overall health of our skin when we include them in our skincare. Since redness can be a sign of a damaged skin barrier, ceramides could help.
Humectants (panthenol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid): Ensuring the skin is adequately hydrated is another route to ensuring the skin barrier remains healthy. Be sure to add a moisturiser on top to lock in moisture.
Know your textures
When choosing products that sit on your skin - like serums and moisturisers (not cleansers and toners!) - getting a texture that suits your skin type is important.
Choosing the wrong texture could mean you end up with a product that’s either not nourishing enough, or is too rich and congesting!
Gel / Gel-Cream textures
These are typically high in water content, humectants (glycerin, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid etc), and lightweight occlusives, such as silicones. They’re best for those with naturally oilier skin, which still needs hydration without any heaviness.
Cream textures
Cream moisturisers are emulsions with both humectants and occlusives. The occlusives are particularly important in keeping moisture locked into the skin, maintaining skin barrier health. Creams can vary from more lightweight and fast-absorbing, to rich and nourishing. The drier the skin, the richer you want your moisturiser to be.
Picking your building blocks
Choosing the right cleanser
Cleansers can be broadly categorised into two types: hydrating and deep cleansing.
Hydrating cleansers
Hydrating cleansers balance and cleanse the skin without causing disruption to it. Consider a hydrating cleanser if:
Your skin is dry/balanced/combination, and isn’t prone to congestion
Your skin is prone to some congestion, but you’re using ingredients which are drying (e.g. retinoids, acids)
Your skin barrier is damaged (prone to temporary redness, irritation, sensitivity, breakouts)
Deep cleansers
The other type of cleanser is one that provides a deeper cleanse , like formulas containing acids. The way we see it, acids are the only active ingredient worth paying for in a cleanser, as they get to work very quickly and can have a noticeable effect on the skin. Consider a deep cleanser if:
Your skin is combination or oily and prone to significant congestion
Your skin can be sensitive and prone to congestion and doesn’t respond well to leave-on products that are highly concentrated
Choosing a moisturiser
A moisturiser should include a balance of humectants (e.g. glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol) and emollients/occlusives (e.g jojoba oil, shea butter, silicones). Texture plays a big part in choosing a moisturiser that suits your skin and that you love to apply.
You can also choose to include active ingredients in your moisturiser to target specific skin goals, but in its simplest form, the role of a moisturiser is to keep the skin barrier healthy by balancing the moisture levels of the skin.
We would also recommend switching up your moisturiser throughout the year, especially if you have combination skin.
Our skin produces more oil in the summer, so we’re more prone to congestion, while in the winter our skin is generally much drier. Our choice of moisturiser is a great way to counteract some of these seasonal changes and keep our skin balanced all year round.
Always Finish with a Sunscreen
A decent broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential in every skincare routine. ‘Broad-spectrum’ means that the formula will protect against the damaging effects of both UVA and UVB rays.
UVB protection is measured by the SPF, and UVA protection is shown by the star rating in the UK/EU - although this is not a legal requirement, so not every brand declares this!
Gone are the days of thick, heavy opaque sunscreens - now there is such a broad array of options out there to suit any skin.
Here are some key things to consider when choosing your sunscreen:
The finish you prefer: matte vs. dewy
Your skin tone (if you have dark skin, certain UV filters might leave a white cast)
Whether it works well with the previous steps in your routine
Finding a texture that you can easily apply every 2 hours
Once you have decided what you need for each of these steps, you’re ready to go! If you’d like any specific help with building a skincare routine to your exact needs and budget, our team of experts at Renude are on hand to help. Use code THEKNOW10 for an extra £10 spending credit when you become a member.'
