London Stock, Mayfair: restaurant review

Tucked away off Mayfair’s main thoroughfare is London Stock, a fine dining restaurant awarded 3 AA Rosettes in September. If my recent experience is anything to go by, many more accolades must surely soon follow.

On walking into the restaurant, I was immediately struck by the open kitchen. It’s a new feature for London Stock, which recently relocated from its former home in Wandsworth, where it spent three years attracting gastronomers from across the capital with its promise of approachable fine dining.

Seeing the chefs at work didn’t just whet my appetite for the delicious food to come - it also served to create an immediate ambience of warmth, vibrancy and innovation, characteristics which clearly carry through to the impressive menu.

After being seated, we were invited to try a cocktail. On the expert guidance of the sommelier, I opted for a Yuzu Martini - a delicious, citrusy twist on the classic - while my boyfriend went for “The Last Word”, a heady mix of gin, chartreuse and maraschino liqueur. While maraschino can often be overpowering, the drink was light and floral - the perfect aperitif.

The food

We dined off the four-course menu which, priced at £60, proved to be exceptional value for money.

Once we’d selected our dishes, an amuse-bouche promptly appeared from the kitchen: a flaky brioche paired with a whipped rhubarb butter, accompanied by a truly incredible concoction of apple, parsnip mousse, walnut crumble and cinnamon.

This clever use of fresh ingredients set the tone for the rest of the menu, where there is a clear commitment to sustainable cooking. Under the expert guidance of Head Chef Sebastian Rast, London Stock’s menu is ever-changing to reflect seasonality and supply - all the more reason to return!

I opted for the beef tartare to begin, a melt-in-the-mouth dish with miso and onion to cut through the richness and croutons to provide textural contrast. My boyfriend chose the sea bream ceviche, which proved to be equally brilliant. The incorporation of kumquats gave the dish an unexpected sweetness, thus avoiding the lime-heavy acidity that can so often overpower the fish.

It was soon time for our second starter: glazed rabbit leg accompanied by a prune sauce that was deep, rich, sticky - and so, so tasty.

I can’t think of anything I’d rather eat more on a cold, wintery day.

We decided to go for different dishes for the main course, in order to sample as much of the menu as possible (always a wise tactic!). I greatly enjoyed the Suffolk lamb shoulder - the quality of the meat evident in its tenderness - which was served with crispy kale, black olives and demi-pickled onions.

My boyfriend chose the chalk stream trout, which was quite honestly like nothing I’d ever tasted before. It came confit - meaning it melted in the mouth - with a buttermilk and dill sauce. It was quite possibly the star of the show.

It’s worth mentioning at this point that London Stock prioritises locally-sourced ingredients, from suppliers including Bethnal Green Fish, Natoora and HG Walter, and this really shines through in the cooking.

While the dishes are exciting and innovative, they are also firmly anchored in the quality and seasonality of the produce and the skill of the chefs, making for a truly unparalleled dining experience.

Something sweet

There was just about room for dessert ( when isn’t there?), which meant I got to enjoy a truly delicious plate of apple mousse, yogurt and walnut crumble.

My boyfriend opted for a soufflé of dark chocolate, banana and rum. London Stock’s commitment to using only the freshest ingredients meant it avoided the artificiality that can marr banana desserts, and I can’t recommend it enough.

To top the meal off, we were invited to try another cocktail. Continuing on the theme of his delicious dessert, my boyfriend went for the “London Exchange” - a perfectly-judged blend of rum and banana liqueur - while I went for “Penicillin”, which has converted me to the wonders of a whisky cocktail.

Reflecting on our meal at London Stock has made me very hungry - which is testament to both the exceptional food and the welcoming atmosphere.

£60 for a four-course dinner may be more than you’d usually spend on an evening out (much more, in my case!) but it really is worth every penny.

The team could easily choose to raise their prices - and would certainly be justified in doing so - but the fact they haven’t reflects their commitment to approachable and innovative fine dining.

With a menu that changes with the seasons, I’ll be keeping an eager eye on what the chefs dream up next.

Esther was a guest of London Stock.