BKC Soho, London: restaurant review
After a stressful day spent flat hunting in London, my boyfriend and I were in need of a serious pick-me-up - and a delicious meal at BKC Soho proved to be just the ticket.
The recently-opened BKC Soho describes itself as the “cooler younger sister” of its successful Marble Arch site - and the reason why is apparent from the moment you walk in. The thoughtfully-designed restaurant makes clever use of mirrors to amplify the space, while a chic terracotta colour palette and carefully-curated playlist add to the laid back vibe.
As we made our way to BKC Soho, weaving our way through the hordes of West End theatregoers, we’d questioned whether it would be possible to find such tasty food (and at such a reasonable price) in the heart of the city. We needn’t have worried: the dishes on offer at BKC - Biryani Kebab Chai being their signature fare - were all exceptional.
The warm up
After spending a good ten minutes deliberating over which dishes to start with, we opted for the kebab platter so we could sample as much as possible. This proved to be a wise choice, with each bite more delicious than the last.
The masala fish finger - flaky fish encased in a crisp, delicately spiced batter - was a firm favourite (and puts the humble fish finger sandwich to shame). The galouti - a melt-in-the-mouth minced mutton patty - is another must-try, and a delicacy from Lucknow, the Northern Indian city from which BKC draws much culinary inspiration.
And despite neither my boyfriend nor I being vegetarian, we were absolutely blown away by the beetroot croquette. We spent a fair bit of time speculating over how it was even possible to get beetroot to taste like that - before a friendly waiter provided the answer: a carefully-judged balance of spices and the addition of peanuts for richness and texture.
This thoughtful approach to vegetarian cuisine was mirrored throughout the menu, from the Palak Paneer to the House Dal. Non meat-eaters are guaranteed a tasty feast, too!
The main event
All this only served to whet our appetites - so we were seriously looking forward to trying BKC’s signature biryani. It did not disappoint!
We opted for the lamb, which arrived sizzling in a clay pot, testament to the restaurant’s commitment to both authenticity and sustainability. As soon as we opened the lid, we were greeted by a heady mix of aromatic spices, saffron and rosewater - while the meat itself was perfectly tender, with a much-welcome spice hit.
We could’ve stopped there - but reader, we did not. I opted for the Fish Tikka Masala - perfectly-cooked Tandoori monkfish simmered in a rich onion and tomato sauce - while my boyfriend went for the Murg Makhni, equally-tender chicken cooked in spiced tomato and fenugreek.
A sweet final note
Dessert is a different stomach (even the science agrees!) which certainly worked in our favour, as it meant we got to sample two of BKC Soho’s standout desserts.
I went for the Phirni - a thick, creamy dessert made from ground rice and cardamom-infused milk. Forget all memories of school dinner rice puddings: this dish has made it into my top 10, a serious compliment given my sweet tooth!
My boyfriend, who is usually less of a dessert fan, was blown away by the syrup-soaked Gulab jamun, likening the taste to warm fairground donuts - but so much better.
It would’ve been rude to leave without trying the chai (it is Biryani Kebab Chai, after all!). While we were tempted by the Kashmiri Pink Chai - made with rose petals and pistachios - we were ready for something lighter, and the Karak Chai proved to be the perfect note upon which to end a wonderful meal.
Despite having sampled a significant portion of the menu, we left fully satisfied without feeling as if we’d overdone it. Talking to the chef afterwards, he explained how this is down to the fact that much of BKC’s menu is prepared in a Tandoor oven - providing richness of flavour, but a much-welcome lightness, too.
As we walked back through Soho to catch the Tube, we couldn’t help but remark on what a hidden gem BKC Soho is. It’s an overused phrase, sure, but BKC’s central location and exceptional value for money means it truly deserves the title.
During our meal, we saw numerous prospective diners turned away as the restaurant was fully booked, a testament to the tastiness of the food. I for one am already dreaming of my next trip to BKC Soho - perhaps to sample one of their kathi rolls at lunchtime - washed down, of course, with another exceptional cup of chai.
Esther was a guest of BKC Soho.