Purezza, Camden Town, London: restaurant review
As much as I’ve wanted to like vegan cheese over the years, it’s something that I’ve struggled to get on board with. So when the opportunity to eat at Purezza - a much-lauded, plant-based pizza restaurant - landed in my inbox, I was hopeful that my opinion could finally be shifted.
Back in 2015, Stefania Evangelisti and her husband Tim Barclay opened their Brighton restaurant - the UK’s first vegan pizzeria - with the determination to create a vegan menu which appealed to everyone.
Since then, Purezza has gone from strength to strength, winning a top prize at the World Pizza Championships in 2019 and opening branches in Manchester and Camden Town, north London.
A warm welcome
On a crisp October evening, my friend and I were welcomed to Purezza’s Camden branch by the general manager, Stewart Finlay. Five years ago, Stewart decided to try a plant-based diet for four weeks - and he has not looked back since (he even has the vegan logo - a green “v” with a leaf on the end of it - tattooed on his forearm to prove it).
“Meat eating didn’t sit right with me and my lifestyle anymore,” Stewart told me. “I had to find a job which aligned me with my lifestyle and my beliefs and that took a little while - and a lot of courage.”
Stewart now travels for an hour and a half every day to get to Purezza, but says it’s worth it to spend his days in a plant-based environment.
Sustainability is at the heart of the business and everything from Purezza’s oil (which is picked up by waste cooking oil collection company Olleco and turned into biofuel), to vodka (which comes from the Sustainable Spirit Co. in refillable bottles) contribute to a larger eco-friendly vision.
Stefania and Tim put considerable thought into ensuring that suppliers are as sustainable - and local - as possible. They get their coffee from the Camden Coffee Roastery, which is based in Camden Market, and they regularly pop across the road to stock up on supplies from family-run greengrocers Parkway Greens.
Plant-powered pizzas
Purezza’s menu features several vegan pizzas. Although the restaurant’s Parmigiana Party pizza is award-winning, my friend and I opted to share the Pepperoni & Agave and the Four Seasons. We also ordered a side of potatoes because there is no better way to spend a Tuesday than by eating carbs with a serving of carbs…
The Pepperoni & Agave was particularly delicious and perfectly spicy. The tomato base was topped with mozzarella, which is made from aquafaba (or chickpea water to you and me). The pepperoni, made from pea protein, had the soft, chewy texture and the spicy, tangy flavour of the original. My landlady tried some of the leftovers the next day and she was very impressed.
The potatoes came roasted with garlic and tossed with aquafaba mozzarella and hemp parm (made from hemp seeds), creating a lovely, nutty flavour which added an interesting, gritty texture and depth to the dish.
We finished with a tiramisu which was light, chocolatey and perfectly caffeinated, and washed it all down with a refreshing pint of Fourpure lager which comes from a brewery in Bermondsey, east London. Unsurprisingly, this delicate beer is also vegan.
Purezza also caters for a wide range of intolerances and allergies, including those who are gluten-free or allergic to nuts like I am. Whether you’ve been following a plant-based diet for a while or are just keen to try something new, I would highly recommend Purezza. As I promised Stewart, I’ll definitely be back.
Maggie John was a guest of Purezza in Camden Town, London.